Multiple businesses around me have gone fully single stream, garbage included. People keep messing up the sorting so bad that the trash companies were paying people to sort at the dump. So they figured they’d stop sending 2 trucks

Uri Geller wants to know your location for copyright infringement. You and Pokémon Kadabra both

The mother ingested water. We’re in a thread based on the host consuming things

Hopefully, it told you that’s not a sign of a worn clutch. Assuming no computer interference and purely mechanical effects, then that’s a sign the clutch is dragging. A worn clutch would provide more of an air gap with the pedal depressed than a fresh clutch. If you want to see a partial list of potential causes, see my reply to the other comment that replied to you.

Your questions are still not proof that LLMs are filling some void. If you think of a traditional encyclopedia, of course it’s not going to know what the colors of one manufacturer’s sandpapers mean. I’m sure that’s answered somehow on their website or wherever you came across the two colors in the same grit and format. Chances are, if one is more expensive and doesn’t have a defined difference in abrasive material, the pricier one is going to last longer by way of having stronger backing paper, better abrasive adhesive, and better resistance to clogging. Whether or not the price is necessary for your project is a different story. ChatGPT is reading the same info available to you. But if you don’t understand the facts presented on the package, then how can you trust the LLM to tokenize it correctly to you?

Similarly, a traditional encyclopedia isn’t going to have a direct answer to your clutch question, but, if it has thorough mechanical entries (with automotive specifics), you might be able to piece it together. You’d learn the “engine” spins in unison up to the flywheel, the flywheel is the mating surface for the clutch, the clutch pedal disengages the clutch from the flywheel, and that holding the pedal down for 5+ seconds should make the transmission input components spin down to a stop (even in neutral). You’re trusting the LLM here to have a proper understanding of those linked mechanical devices. It doesn’t. It’s aggregating internet sources, buzzfeed style, and presenting anything it finds in a corrupted stream of tokens. Again, if you’re not brought up to speed on how those components interact, then how do you know what it’s saying is correct?

Obviously, the rebuttal is how can you trust anyone’s answer if you’re not already knowledgeable? Peer review is great for forums/social sites/wikipedias in the way of people correcting other comments. But beyond that, for formal informational sites, vetting places as a source - a skill being actively eroded with Google or ChatGPT “giving” answers. Neither are actually answering your questions. They’re regurgitating things they found elsewhere. Remember, Google was happy to take reddit answers as fact and tell you elmers glue will hold cheese to pizza and cockroaches live in cocks. If you saw those answers with their high upvote count, you’d understand the nuance that reddit loves shitty sarcastic answers for entertainment value. LLMs don’t because they, literally, don’t understand anything. It’s up to you to figure out if you should trust an algorithm-promoted Facebook page called “car hacks and facts” filled with bullshit videos. It’s up to you to figure out if everythingcar. com is untrustworthy because it has vague, expansive wording and has more ad space than information.

It’s not. A worn clutch is losing its ability to connect the engine to the transmission. With the pedal depressed, the clutch should not be touching the engine [flywheel] at all. So a worn clutch would provide slightly more of an air gap between the engine and the transmission. So to answer OP’s question, assuming there’s no computer programming involved with the drop and it’s a purely mechanical effect, then the clutch is dragging. There’s many possibilities, including misadjusted clutch mechanisms (cable/plunger nut, pedal free play screw), worn clutch mechanisms (bent clutch fork, leaking fluid/worn cable sheath/stretched cable, broken pedal mount, bent levers), or a jam (extra carpet under the pedal, debris in transmission lever) to new several possibilities.

I had both a worn clutch and a dragging clutch in my Geo at different points. The only result of a worn clutch is having the engine rev up faster than the trucklet was accelerating, as if it was a loosey goose automatic. No shifting issues. When the cable was out of adjustment, it wasn’t disengaging properly. It happened while driving and made it very difficult to drive since I came to a stop. I had to ride the poor synchro to get it up in speed to, essentially, clutchless shift into 1st. 3 blocks later, I forced it in just in time to climb my driveway.

But, to a much less dramatic experience, often enough, the aftermarket floormat would slip under the pedal and just slightly limit the clutch pedal travel to an effect more like the parent comment’s experience. It go into gear with a little crunch and a little shudder and a little engine drop.

Side note, it’s normal for letting the clutch out in neutral and having the engine drop a little. If the clutch pedal is up, the engine will be driving multiple input components - they just won’t be further connected to the output components. It takes a little energy to spin those back up to 700rpm. They should spin down after a few seconds. If 5-10 seconds pass with the pedal depressed and the gears still resist then comply being engaged with the shifter, they aren’t slowing down. That’d be another symptom/diag point for OP to test for a dragging clutch. A caveat is that if there’s zero input and output speed on the transmission, the dogs may not be lined up and will still prevent engagement. It takes a few tries to confirm “sometimes won’t engage” vs “really will not engage”

Or how I check 3 paths in a video game that all lead me to the same place

Centuries of playtesting

I asked if I was the only one that gave a damn about the rules

That’s why you’re perfect.

You said exactly what the parent comment said and ignored the secondary part of OP’s intent. But thanks?

The question isn’t just about upstarts, it’s asking how we got here. We can’t start Ovidia in a garage, but Nvidia did at one point. So where’d everyone else go? What partnerships and preferences put Nvidia on top?

Just because a school has an entire ESL department taught by ESL speakers does not mean all ESL speakers are qualified to teach ESL.

I think you’re overestimating the average quality of English as a second/third language education. The internet continuously becomes more accessible across the globe, which has overlap with lower quality and lower frequency of English lessons. There’s more exposure from speakers that don’t use the same native alphabet as well, so use is not so universal. When speaking is the primary use of language, reading is secondary, and writing is tertiary, mistakes get interesting. It’s not too hard to hear the word “extreme” but visualize the spelling from words like dream, team, cream, or beam, all words I could see being more commonly used than extreme. It’s easier to learn “very” as a modifier to a common adjective.

Source: I work in the US with mixed central/south American-born employees and travel to Mexico often. I see casual US-sourced mistakes, of course, as well as those distinctly from Spanish-speaking writers. My Spanish is just as incorrect. If you can say it out loud and still make sense, I’ll vote for non-native English speakers every time as the cause

All devices are rated in both voltage and amperage. The reason the voltage is not typically listed is because the market defines the voltage available and the plug on the device is what tells you the device’s voltage rating, if nowhere else. It’s still important to tell you if it requires an adapter, ignoring the part where the average consumer isn’t going to try to wire a NEMA 5-15 (regular north American plug) to a 12v barrel plug.

This next part is not me trying to be a know-it-all, but to dispel an incredibly dangerous misconception. Amperage is not necessarily what kills you. That is a myth, and a dangerous one at that. Amperage is what causes burns, including internal burns, and is what kills you later at the hospital. Higher voltage is what kills you NOW by finding more paths. If it crosses your heart or brain, it’s probably over. Electricity does not seek the path of least resistance, but rather it travels across each path inversely proportional to the resistance. If you complete a circuit with opposite hands, you’ll probably be safe because your chest cavity of blood vessels will conduct the majority of electricity in paths other than through your heart or brain. AC power and higher voltages increase this risk. Low voltage is not entirely safer, but for most consumer use, “low voltage” is mostly below the breakdown voltage of dry skin, about 30-40v. Wet, and especially sweaty skin will conduct far lower voltages - licking 9v batteries is a normal example, but I’ve also been shocked by a 12v car battery the first time I worked around a side-terminal battery. Opposite forearms, too, so you can bet I took a minute to monitor my pulse. But the Lethal voltages and amperages are in the milli-unit range if they find the correct path. That’s not a high threshold, even with the significantly lower resistance pathways across your chest taking the majority of electricity. And, even if it was just amperage that kills you, you have no control over it because you’ll never know how much resistance you’re creating for the circuit to travel. It’s an unknown variable that’s supposed to be infinitely large but, if you’re getting shocked, it’s something lower than infinity. I household circuits, your drawn amperage will be much lower than the 15a circuit breaker and it won’t trip to save you. That is where GFCI circuits come into play by detecting incorrect electricity paths rather than amperage overload. 15a circuit breakers prevent fires. GFCI prevent death.

110/120 is the voltage. That’s irrelevant to the amperage, which is somewhat standardized as 15a on normal outlets and 20a on kitchen or garage outlets.

Extension cords do not have fuses/circuit breakers. That’s found in some power strips but it’s neither required nor necessary with proper use.

And I can literally only reach my car with a welder if I use an extension cord…

The risk of daisy-chaining power strips is it become very easy to overload it, so yes, a circuit breaker would be nice as fire protection. 17 phone chargers would be fine but heating appliances will overload it fast. With no internal breaker, it’s easy to cause a fire with really cheap strips but, if life was ideal, they’d all be made to handle 20a loads like the receptacle in the wall.

The risk of daisy-chaining extension cords is the extra resistance incurred at each connection. There’s a varying amount form the imperfect contacts and a varying amount from pulling the cords apart over the time of device use. If you keep burning plugs with your yard care equipment, it’s probably not normal. It’s usually from partially unplugged cords trying to carry 10-20a across half the planned plug contact. You can readily buy 10-16 awg cords in 110v markets. It’s up to you to determine the appropriate gauge. In an ideal world, they’d all be 10awg. But we don’t have that, we have a world where you can actively choose to save money and increase risk.

The Thargoid war seemed pretty exciting. I did some ground-based ship battles and was decent at it, but I couldn’t commit the time for a space battle, for a titan battle, or for a foot battle. I can’t say I want to walk around my ship, but I’d take it if it meant a more realistic transition between ship and foot, though. I still pop in for quick pirate hunting at nav beacons. I’m always getting fomo about the latest credit farms but have given up on owning a carrier. I appreciate the bio exploration as an expansion on long distance exploration since the payout is comparable to casual combat, at least.

But yeah, ultimately, it’s a fairly empty game. Lots of space, little variation. Obviously I enjoyed it enough to put 1000 hours into. No regrets there. But I was very into the lore and community stuff so it was as much roleplay as it was gameplay

From someone who made the screen trippier and trippier as a kid until he Icarus’d it, strong magnets taped to a drill bit and spun at high speed around the screen can degauss it. But this type of information basically has no application anymore

Speaking of Icarus, the Parker Solar probe has made its closest approach to the sun this morning. It cut contact (as planned) on Monday and it’s probably reconnecting on Friday. That little guy is great. 3.8 million miles from the surface at 430,000mph.

I’m guilty of this. So many times, I’ll see something at full price and say I’ll wait to buy it on sale. Then it goes on sale and I don’t feel like spending the money at all. Granted, I’m not trying to sway the market and screaming my bid, this is just my internal monologue. I have a backlog of games and a busy adult life, so it’s not like I’m game-poor. Just regular poor.

About 1000 hours in Elite:Dangerous, my most-played Steam game. Kinda bums me out that it was all 2020-2022 gameplay for the first 900 hours but I haven’t had time to get back into.

Valheim continues it’s slow burn at about 400 hours since 2020.

No times on Xbox games, at least not from the OS. Fortnite has probably become my top game there. Whatever. It’s not just for my entertainment. Assassin’s Creed Odyssey I think had somewhere over 200 hours in the save file time. I’d love to know how many hours I put into Forza Motorsports 4 when custom paint schemes was a technological feat. Ace Combat 4/5/7 also have a ton of replays for me since the bonus medals are so tangible. Far Cry 2 doesn’t have a ton of hours, but I was definitely infatuated with it circa 2010. That night time desert still calls to me